|
Sep
6
|
Posted by maureen
September 6, 2007 |
|
Although spring can seem to be the ideal time to buy perennials, shrubs and trees you should consider planting in the fall. Even though the tree or shrub is going dormant, the roots will continue to grow as long as the soil is warm. As a rule of thumb, you can plant August - October in cold climates, September - October in mild climates, and October - November in warm climates. If you can plant and still have about six weeks before the ground starts freezing, then you can safely fall-plant. The other big plus is that nurseries are having their fall sales and you can get some great prices on a range of plants and trees and you can take advantage of some great prices. Our local nurseries still gave the one year guarantee as well.
Fall planting has many advantages:
- Plants set out in fall require less water
- Fall planting gives plants a head start on growth
- Plants are less susceptible to certain root rots in fall
- Some plants available in fall are fresher
- You can take advantage of sale prices
Things to consider:
- Unless they’re planted correctly, some perennials can rot in winter
- Finding a good selection of trees, shrubs, and perennials in nurseries can be more difficult in fall, and many of the plants you do find are not in bloom.
- Although fall is best for planting most permanent landscape plants, spring is best for frost-tender types, such as citrus, hibiscus, and bougainvillea.
- Hold off planting perennials, trees, and shrubs of borderline hardiness.
Buying a tree should be thought of as a lifetime investment. The care you provide when the tree is planted, and follow-up care. Proper handling during planting is essential to ensure a healthy future for new trees and shrubs. Before you begin planting your tree, be sure you have had all underground utilities located prior to digging.!I have to admit that we had the nursery deliver and plant the trees we brought last fall. (it isn’t cheap) If you decide to do the planting yourself you need to remember:
- Dig a shallow, broad planting hole. Make the hole wide, as much as three times the diameter of the root ball but only as deep as the root ball.
- Identify the trunk flare. The trunk flare is where the roots spread at the base of the tree. This point should be partially visible after the tree has been planted . If the trunk flare is not partially visible, you may have to remove some soil from the top of the root ball
- Remove tree container for containerized trees. Carefully cutting down the sides of the container may make this easier. Inspect the root ball for circling roots and cut or remove them.
- Place the tree at the proper height. Before placing the tree in the hole, check to see that the hole has been dug to the proper depth. The majority of the roots on the newly planted tree will develop in the top 12 inches of soil. To avoid damage when setting the tree in the hole, always lift the tree by the root ball and never by the trunk.
- Straighten the tree in the hole. Before you begin backfilling, have someone view the tree from several directions to confirm that the tree is straight. Once you begin backfilling, it is difficult to reposition the tree. Fill the hole gently but firmly.
- Fill the hole about one-third full and gently but firmly pack the soil around the base of the root ball. Then, if the root ball is wrapped, cut and remove any fabric, plastic, string, and wire from around the trunk and root ball to facilitate growth. Be careful not to damage the trunk or roots in the process.
- Fill the remainder of the hole, taking care to firmly pack soil to eliminate air pockets that may cause roots to dry out. It is not recommended to apply fertilizer at the time of planting.
- Stake the tree, if necessary. If the tree is grown and dug properly at the nursery, staking for support will not be necessary in most home landscape situations. Studies have shown that trees establish more quickly and develop stronger trunk and root systems if they are not staked at the time of planting.
- Mulch the base of the tree. Some good choices are leaf litter, pine straw, shredded bark, peat moss, or composted wood chips. A 2- to 4-inch layer is ideal. More than 4 inches may cause a problem with oxygen and moisture levels.
- Provide follow-up care. Keep the soil moist but not soaked; over watering causes leaves to turn yellow or fall off. Water trees at least once a week, barring rain, and more frequently during hot weather. When the soil is dry below the surface of the mulch, it is time to water. Continue until mid-fall, tapering off for lower temperatures that require less-frequent watering.
Other follow-up care may include minor pruning of branches damaged during the planting process. Prune sparingly immediately after planting and wait to begin necessary corrective pruning until after a full season of growth in the new location.
Comments
